This is a viewer-requested review of Lucas Extreme Duty CLP.

I will test the product's ability as a powder solvent and as a corrosion inhibitor. I have prepared the steel plate by sanding to 400 grit degreasing with brake cleaner and separating into three sections.

I have a new assistant to help burn the powder. Let's fire it up. Here are close-ups of the burnt powder. I applied hoppe's number nine to one. Section and the lucas clp to two sections. I let the plate soak for five minutes. I really like that clock. I scrub the hoppy section with a brass brush and wiped with a clean patch.

After cleaning the brush with brake cleaner I repeated the process with one of the Lucas sections. I gave the remaining Lucas section 25 more minutes of soak time after cleaning the brush I scrubbed and wiped the last section. Here are close-ups of each section. The lucas clp did little to dissolve the burnt powder what powder was removed from the sections was due to the scrubbing and wiping the extra soak time.

Did not seem to help either irie sanded degreased and sectioned the steel plate. I mixed one teaspoon of kosher salt with one cup of water.
I used a clean patch to apply a firm of wd-40 to one section and the Lucas clp to another.

The middle section was left untreated. With the plate held vertical I sprayed each section with the salt spray. Here are close-ups of each section after spraying. I let the plate soak for 24 hours. Here are close-ups of each section. After 24 hours I was surprised that the wd-40 section showed signs of corrosion. The Lucas section was in great shape. So I found that the Lucas extreme duty clp performed similar to break free rem oil. And otis 85 all of these products are able to prevent corrosion. But are not able to dissolve burnt powder.

As well as the Hoppe's number 9 the Lucas clp had a thinner consistency compared to break free and the otis 85. I would say it was more similar to the ram oil.

Following the easy steps of virtual kc's Perma Blue Liquid gun blue kit will keep the metal of your firearm rust free and protected.

Included in the kit is virtue Kc's cleaner degreaser, blue and rust remover, and Perma Blue. Also included is wet/dry sandpaper, a sponge blue and Gobber's service cloth, and barricade wipes. After you have disassembled your firearms.

Clean all the metal parts with the included sponge saturated and cleaner degreaser. Make sure to thoroughly clean all metal parts and then rinse with water. You can now remove rust and/or bluing with the blue and rust remover. Saturate one of the dobbers in the solution and apply it to the metal parts with a small pad at steel-wool polished.

The metal lightly to remove rust and old bluing. Continue this process until the metal is gleaming. The metal has deep scratches or pitting sand. The areas with sandpaper followed by a steel wool polish to smooth it out. Make sure the metal is completely clean of rust and no bluing before moving to the next step.

Next reapply the cleaner degreaser scrub with a sponge and rinse again with water. Now this point of the process try to avoid touching the metal with your finger tips to prevent markings on the meta when it comes to the bluing process.

Now when it's time to start the bluing process timing is very important. You can work on sections of metal rather than the entire piece using a dawber in the Perma Blue. Apply on entire surface, allow the Perma Blue to stay on the metal for no more than one minute. Then rinse it with water and wipe dry. It's better to leave it on for less time because you can always go back and repeat the process if you would like a darker finish after ordering rinsing.

Polish the metal with fine steel wool and look at the coverage of bluing. If there is streaking or you want a darker finish repeat the bluing process after you finish the bluing process. Wipe down all metal parts with barricade wipes and allow curing overnight.