The 6 Best Marine Electronics – Sonar Accessories reviews
Lowrance® Point 1 GPS Module
- Antenna with 4-ft. cable
- T connector
- Spat/pole mount
- Mounting hardware
- Gasket seal
- Install guide
In Scenario was like we're fishing here. And we're fishing some brake lines. That are really pretty simple to fish, but we're also fishing some smaller humps. And that's a situation. That point one puck in your enemy a net working for the lure asses becomes really key. What you get is you actually get headings. If you're fishing a really small area. This specific hump that we're on right. Now it's pretty tiny. What it allows me to do is always know on. That structure which direction the boats sitting so. If my bolts pointed west. Imight be drifting with the wind but it'll always let. Me know exactly how my boats position which can be real key. You do mark fish in small areas to stay on top of them. Another thing it will do is. It will allow you to zoom. That graph way and very far in to see the little nuances in the structure maybe there's a little corner to. That structure maybe there's a little point to. And the updates are so quick with. That point one antenna. That literally you don't get. That arrow jumping around. Everything smooth you know exactly the direction. That you're pointed in. It just allows you to stay on the fish. And catch more throughout the day.
Scotty® Ball Mount with Fish Finder and Universal Mounting Plate
Base mount: 2.25"L x 2.25"W.
Transducer Mounting Plate
Size: 12"L x 4"W.
Lowrance® Kayak Scupper Transducer Mount
Transducer Shield and Saver®
- Humminbird Skim Transducer Shield
- Humminbird Puck Transducer Shield
- Lowrance Skim Transducer Shield
- Lowrance Pod Transducer Shield
Hello Terrace this is Bobby. And I'm just gonna see. We can fix a couple. More things on it you're making great progress. Iwent ahead and showed the design with the ribs to. Somebody it looks like. What I was asking but the only thing is the feedback. They got from people. They liked the old one better so. We could take it back to the bigger sections make. It looks just like you did here the design of the ribs instead of the little ones. This not do one let's do. This was so we can take. And then a couple other changes first of. We could take and make the edge come. All the way down on. One obviously with this design so. This will come down too here. Whatever the measurement needs to be yeah. You have the measurements so. Ibelieve it'll be five inches at the base here. And then and then let's take the taper to 20 degrees. Idid a little more research. It looks like 20 degrees will be a little bit better cuz 24 is the average but the problem is. We have a 20 degree. Or only have a 20 degree hole boat then it'll have to sit crooked for sure to sit on there so.
They can take it to 20 degrees. And then kind of square. It up a little bit to match up a little bit better with the design so like. You did here and then make. It comes straight off. It comes up just here so. Both sides look finished like. This but one will just be. You know missing one of the sections here so it'll be up here. And then it'll go straight across at an angle like a 45-degree 8 sorry at a 20 degree angle from. This to here so they look the same just. One will be higher this won't be lower. And then this finished edge is really good. This little triangle edge makes. It looks really good so. We want to add that take. It back to this design. And then take it to a 20 degree angle so like. How it's oops real big no.
We want to we want to try to kind of finish. It off just like one was swoop. It just a little bit. And then climb it up so. You can hardly tell the transition so. It just so it comes down too here. And then just run straight over on. Both sides so it has a finished look other thing was the hole for where the cables go through here. One should one change to. We could we just need to make sure. This divot stays high so. We need to probably do. It at a 45 degree angle through. It I'll show what I mean here so. One goes in and there's a pocket here. It needs to just come in a 45. Ibelieve so it's straight through so. You could take and insert the cable directly through. Because sometimes the cables are about. You know two inches along the plastic heads. They plug in or about two inches long so. It might not be able to go in.
And then turn up so. It needs to kind of be cut at a 45 which. This is probably work so don't change. You think it'll still work like. Idon't have one in my hand. Ican't really try it with the cables but yeah just needs to be able to get. That cable through and so I'm worried. It comes in and turns the cable head won't flex enough to get. It through there but. It may, so we might have to bring it down I'm not sure we'll just leave. Iguess see but otherwise yeah. That those changes should take care of. And you're doing a great job. And really appreciate. It your work looks great. Idid show it to a couple people. They said wow so great work. And talk to you soon just do those changes.
And we'll go from there. Or maybe more maybe not but. This is great working with. You make it really easy. You just do those and then we'll do. Another step so thank.
Humminbird® XM 9 MDI MEGA Transom Transducer
So the next step is to install the transom out transducer the bracket comes in two parts. This part is connected to the actual transducer. And then this section is connected to the transom of the boat so the first step is actually to secure. This so we'll get started on. Now okay so the first step is too just to grab. These little washers here. These are just designed so. Everything is tight. Everything stays in place the face have points you're just getting at around s points. This was what we've actually got to do is get. These little square nuts. And they've got a slot in. Either side so you sort of need about five. Or six sets of hands to do. This effectively just get. That have another go at. And then we have our nut. That comes through from the other side hopefully. Some up there maybe use the allen key to help. Is okay so we've got. That slide secured now it's just a matter of getting the other side in. And just maybe tighten. It up a little bit we don't want. It super tight at this stage we've still got to set out angles. It onto the boat but. We just sort of get. It up so that it's adjustable. We can make the final adjustments on the boat. It should do so next step is our securing our metal bracket to the boat okay so the next steps installing the metal part of the bracket to the transom of the boat so the first step we're just going to loosely fit. This temporarily so. We can get our height set. And things there is a instruction guide.
If you'd like to follow the template god. Ilike to do it a little differently so first steps just to drop. That fault through there. And that'll probably do just so. Ican line things up. It positioned on the boat. We can mark our bracket so. We can set our holes. And drill our holes so the next step is finding a suitable location on the transom for the transom mount transducer. Now with fiberglass folks. Iactually look for these trailing straights but it's important to have a look under the hull just to ensure. That there're no areas. Where turbulent water can come under the transducer essentially. We need a clean face of water coming underneath.
This transducer so if there's. That comes under the transducer will lose bottom reading at speed so that's the critical thing I like to use. These planing strokes. It becomes an extension of clean water off the planing straight under the transducer. We get good speed performance readings so the first step is just to put a ruler under here. And just mount that there. Imight get Ross in here just to mark. That transducer bracket so that's flush with there. We just mark the top back in. This our indicator and maybe a little mark down the side. That gives us our indication of where. We want to mount that bracket the bracket itself got. Some elongated holes so. We still have some adjustments up. And down we screw out our screws through the hole. We still have the ability to move up.
And down as we need to really know at. This point here the transducer is perfectly flush with the bottom of the boat so next step is just to market our hold position. Isaid we've got a elongated hole pattern, so I'm just going to line. It up about five mils on to. That top line or mark before just. Because we're not actually ever going to want to above the waterline of a whole life so rain again. It sort of go down it anyway so. Istart there just a simple motor of marking those three elongated holes. And then from there. We can just drill our holes in the Centers of those three marks it's always good to tap the thread out as well as far as getting your old size right a lot to use. These easy sizes so essentially. You can just line up your self-tapping screw with.
These holes and just work out. Ithink for mill in. This case is about right, so I've got a 4 mil drill bit. Once you've drilled a hole it's always good then to just flare. It out the front so there's no risk of cracking your gel coat. And drill that self tap. Or in so just flares. That out so you get a nice clean thread in with no cracking of the gel coat okay, so I'm thrilled the holes are. Most importantly don't forget bit of sealant. These little aqua seal tubs of should be in every guy talk here really. These little 80 mil ones are really handy. Than using the big cartridge. You only got little jobs here. And they're available in white. Or clear so you can check those out on the pla website very handy to have okay, so we've got the bracket.
Now mounted onto the back of the boat so. Now we've just got to get. This place in there so. That just slides up through there. You just grab the main bolt. That goes through there then. We just have two washers. One nylon washer goes on first then a stainless steel washer it's fitted to the inflow bolt. That just comes in on the other side. And then you need from there is the allen key. That supplied in the kit. And Phillips head screwdriver so we'll get. This tightened up, and then we'll set the angle of our transducer okay, so we've got. This top box secured. Now we're just going to set the angle of our transducer so. This is secure we can take off. This little cover that that just protects the bottom of the transducer. While we're installing in case.
You drop or scratch. That can be removed what I like to do at. This point is just grab our ruler as our straight edge. And just run that along the inside edge of the hole. That gives us an idea of the angle. We look at the leading edge that's just below the planing straight which I'm pretty happy with for this type of boat. Ibelieve that leading edge should be maybe 2/3 mil below the ruler the leading edge of the ruler. And then the back you just want to tilt. It down slightly so essentially. What we want to do is get a nice clean face of water off. That planing strike under. That transducer and coming off there, so I'm actually pretty happy with. That angle as it sits there. Now yeah there so then it's just a case of with the allen key just tightening up those two screws.
We had in there before. They can be tightened up. You can adjust that go out. And try the performance get your speed. You find it's breaking up at a certain speed. You might just need to lower. It down which will mean just dropping this whole section. And the transducer out loosening off your three screws set hold the metal bracket to the transom of the boat maybe lowering it down maybe first just try your angles a little bit maybe try. And improve that angle but. Ithink that's set fairly nicely there so hopefully. You can get an idea of how we've installed. If it's a fiberglass the aluminum boat you'd probably want to run. It between the planing strokes.
Because they're more of a lump sort of situation. And they'll just create aeration but fiberglass boats as long as. That planning strikes going all the way to the back of the boat. Ibelieve that's the best place to get a good speed reading out a transducer.