Hi guys I’m Everett with La Sportiva. The next shoe that we’re introducing this summer is the Skwama Women’s building on the success of our Skwama men’s version. Just like the Futura Women’s, the shoe is going to feature a lower volume last in both the forefoot and heel, allowing climbers to fine tune the fit and function of the shoe for their foot shape.

The Skwama Women’s will feature the same midsole and split outsole construction of the Skwama men’s, along with the S heel, construction from the Skwama and Otaki line again lower volume through the heel cup, slightly modified fit from the men’s version that we’ve had out for a couple years. However, same construction in there same sensitivity through that SEO platform, same single velcro strap system as the Skwama, both the Skwama men’s and women’s are going to be in the softer and more performance-oriented side of our line, prioritizing sensitivity down turn and aggressive climbing position for the foot for steeper sport, climbing bouldering and competition climbing.

So the Skwama Women’s will be releasing in summer of 2018 it’ll retail at the same price as the men’s higher volume last at 165 dollars.

Equipment I’m here today with the new La Sportiva women’s solution. It is one of our high-end aggressive, soldering shoes. So the thing with this true is that it’s got a very deep heel cup. The solution was the first true to have a fully rubber encased heel, which makes it super secure. So when you’re doing heel hooks you’re not going to be worried about it falling out or being feeling insecure. The thing I like the most about this shoe is the design of the toe. The rubber they’ve use is quite thin and quite soft.

It’s the excess grip too and there’s three point five millimeters of its, so it’s there’s not very much of it there. But what that gives? You is a lot of sensitivity, because the shoe is quite soft. You can also sort of you can really catch into small depressions in the rock and then smear at the same time and get a lot of contact and that’s how it stands out. I think from other shoes in its category, so a lot of high-end, aggressive shoes. You try on and they’re super super rigid your foots locked in there and it’s you know it’s probably going to be curved, like this – to help you with those really in cut, holds on on very, very steep terrain.

The thing with this, so is it’s a little bit more subtle than than that. You’ve got a lot more movement in the foot. You start a lot of down turn and a lot of power from the round, but it’s a little bit more versatile in the way you can use it, which I think helps with very technical problems.

Hey are you looking to get started in gym, climbing or an outdoor rock climbing shoes? I got a great choice: coming up, hey guys, philip long here for saw back gear. Listen if you like all things in the outdoors like camping or backpacking, rock, climbing or mountaineering, we publish videos every week to help you have a safe and fun time outdoors. So if this is your first time here, consider subscribing so when I was getting started into rock climbing in the gym, I needed a pair of climbing shoes.

Now, when I was a kid, we used to go out to Joshua Tree National Monument a lot and had a lot of fun out there. But when I was a kid, climbing shoes were just kind of getting started and they were more for the very wealthy guys because they were very expensive. So we climbed around a lot in tennis shoes and there were guys out there, climbing around in hiking boots that that was the era that I grew up in and obviously things have changed over the years. So one of the things I found when I was starting gym, climbing I needed to get a pair of good climbing shoes, but I also wanted something.

That’s going to be versatile that I could use both in the gym and outside and I found it in this pair of climbing shoes from La Sportiva. It’s the tarantulas I’m always interested how the marketing guys come up with those names for shoes, but there you go anyway, this pair of shoes, as you can see, they’re pretty worn I’ve been using them a lot that you climb. We try and climb them once or twice a week in the gym, and these have lasted me almost two years now and it functioned really really well so I would consider these shoes an entry-level to mid-level shoe they’re designed more for comfort.

To be perfectly honest, and it’s a great way to get it started with climbing. Some of the more advanced shoes are more climbing specific and a lot of them are can be very uncomfortable to wear. As a matter of fact, there are a lot of climbers out there who will actually size down a couple of sizes to make sure that they fit really really tight. The idea is is to keep your toes tight together, so that you have a lot of support underneath it when you’re, climbing, and that goes to actually climbing technique, which is a whole nother.

Video, we’ll probably get into that at some point. In any case, this one’s a little more triple to where the souls in the back or a solid rubber sole that runs the entire length of the foot. Some of the more advanced shoes will have a space here where you’ve got rubber on the heel and rubber on the pad of your feet, and your toes is very those are very aggressive shoes, this one’s again designed more for comfort and is a more moderate entry-level style of shoe. I will say this, though these shoes will grow with you.

I was kind of surprised. I thought I might only have them six months, but they worked really well and I’ve been very pleased with their performance. They’ve a full leather upper. Very comfortable on top and because of the lacing, you can adjust it to make sure that it fits your instep well, which is very important, because these things need to fit very, very snugly to your feet, to make sure that you’re getting enough pressure on your toes to keep them together. But again these aren’t going to be crushing you toes together.

It’s going to allow you the opportunity to grow with the shoe until you move up and decide that you want to get a more aggressive shoe like any pair of shoe. These do take a little bit of time to break in, but I found these actually broken very, very quickly and again. I think that was partially due to the all leather uppers. They are unlined and because they are dyed, understand that when you take them off after having worn them and you’re a little sweaty, you’re probably going to have orange feet, but it comes off.

So don’t worry about that. So one of the things talking about comfort when you’re at the gym a lot of times, you’ll see climbers, climbing and then, as soon as they come down they’re, either taking their shoes completely off or at least half way kind of wandering around the gym. Those tend to be the more aggressive super tight shoes. These I found I, don’t have to do that. I can walk around in these shoes and it stays comfortable at least enough to walk around it.

You never want to wear them outside walking on the street or something like that. They are not that kind of comfort, but in the gym or if you’re on you know a rock face, whatever they tend to be very, very comfortable and you’re, not really thinking about them and you’re, not thinking about your your feet being an excruciating pain as you’re climbing, so the loss party, but rancha lace comes in this color. Only now they used to come in a lime. Green trevor’s actually got a couple.

Pairs of those I guess they’re moving away from that, but this is the color that they come in. So if you don’t like the flame, they call it flame. So if you don’t like the color flame, that’s what they’re calling it? Probably not your shoe, but I do like these shoes a lot so as with any shoe, they do wear out over time. The rubber will start getting too flexible. You’ll start having issues adhering to the wall. That’s completely normal again. It’s like any shoes going to wear out and I will probably be looking for another pair slightly more aggressive at some point, so stay tuned and we’ll see what we end up with.

So here’s a couple of bonus tips for you and how to take care of these shoes. One thing I would recommend is after you’ve taken them off. Invariably, they’re gonna be sweaty. So when you take them off, use the loops on the back of the shoe to clip them onto the back of your backpack or outside of your gym bag and that’ll help air em out and keep them a little fresher. Okay and then it even take it a little bit further I have seen people do this, where they take a dryer sheet and tuck it down inside the shoe and that’s going to help it stay a little bit fresher – and not offend a whole bunch of people, including yourself.

Ok, guys, that’s gonna do it for us. I would really like to know. What’s your favorite climbing shoe, and why leave a comment below again if this is your first time and you’re really interested in seeing more videos, please hit the like button and consider subscribing because there’s a subscribe button just below once you hit that be great, and as always, this is Phillip long with saw bat gear, and we look forward to seeing you outside.

So I’m Ryan with La Sportiva- and this is the new la Sportiva theory, so the La Sportiva Theory is an Olympic level bouldering shoe. So this shoe is designed specifically to climb on really huge volumes and get maximum rubber contact on the bottom, since it has no midsole, it’s going to lay down really flat. So when you’re doing parkour like moves and bouncing from volume to volume, you’re getting a maximum rubber coverage and a really good surface area contact, it also has a really unique sole design.

So we have an edge right on the tip of the toe, so you’re still going to get really awesome micro edge performance while having a really awesome, no edge roll-up over the sides of the shoe. So that’s going to allow for a lot of really cool foot, English and scumming, and just maximizing surface area contact with large volumes. The rubber also tapers from 4 millimeters at the toe all the way back to 1 8 millimeters at the back of the sole.

So that’s also a really unique sole construction. We’ve also got more rubber over the top of the toe than we’ve ever had before on any of our other shoes. So that’s going to provide for really awesome, jamming and also toe hooking and toast gums and just dragging the toe to maintain tension on the wall. This shoes, basically totally coated in rubber to allow you to use every surface on the shoe for climbing.

The last is the PD 85 last, which is our most aggressive last. What PD stands for is pointed and down turned, so you can see by the profile of the shoe that it’s got. A really aggressive pointed down turn shape. 85 is the degrees of asymmetry off the heel. So if you were to draw a straight line up off the heel, you have eighty-five degrees of asymmetry over to the apex of the toe, so yeah again really aggressive last.

It does have the p3 platform, so you’re, gonna, you’re gonna, get that really nice downturn shape of the shoe over the life of the shoe. It has that kind of springy feeling loading up the tension behind the heel and bring it all the way to the toe and back around the heel. So it gives you this nice slingshot feel when you put the shoe on, but still really really soft.

So you get awesome pedi-dexterity as well. You can basically use your feet like your hands and that’s really really ideal for a super steep terrain as well. So the toe box looks like it has a lot of room in it, but that’s basically just the front of the shoe kind of bowing up from the structure of the rubber. You can see that there’s kind of a concave shape on the bottom of the shoe, so it’s going to kind of wrap up and form over your knuckles really really nicely most people that are wearing this.

You are going to downsize in it pretty aggressively, so their knuckles are going to be sticking straight up. So that’s kind of why the front of the shoe is shaped. The way it is the rubber on top of the shoe is actually really really thin. Doesn’t have a lot of structure to it, so it’s actually going to accommodate your knuckles sticking up really hard in the front of the shoe everyone that I know who fits in the sample size has said.

It’s a really really comfortable fit super snug and just sucks down to the foot really nicely. So this also has a really sock like fit and there’s just no dead space whatsoever inside of the shoe. So it’s intended for a really tight performance, aggressive, fit the rubber is going to mitigate the stretch quite a bit. It’s not going to let the shoe deform as much so. The the rubber is going to kind of maintain most of the structure on the foot.

You can see that pretty much right here is the only spot that isn’t just totally coated in the rubber. It’s not really going to stretch so much, but it is going to break it in the heel is very similar to what we have on the solution comp, but basically really sensitive a nice kind of firmer strip of rubber down the middle, which is going to resist deformation on really hard pulling on heel.

Hooks and really soft rubber on the side, so you get kind of the benefits of a molded heel and a nun molded heel in the same package, with maintaining sensitivities. So with molded heel cups. You don’t get as much sensitivity, but you really nice structure. So this is kind of a nice blend of the two. So it’s going to work really good on small features, especially like screw on holds and micro holds that they use in competition climbing.

So on this sole, we used the vibram XS Grip -, which is the best softest stinkiest rubber for a really hardcore high-performance climbing it deforms a little bit better and gets a little bit stickier and is easy to drive into micro features and works better on steep terrain and much better at smearing, as well than excess edge weather. The biggest difference between men’s and women’s is you’re just going to find a shoe.

That’s built for a climber. That’s a little bit lighter weight and it’s going to be a little bit lower volume, but more more negligible than anything. It’s it’s basically just colors I think most climbers won’t be able to tell the difference between the the men’s and women’s if they were blindfolded. So it’s gonna be a little bit lower volume built for a lighter weight climber.

It’s the best way to think about it. The tensioning is probably adjusted, although they will neither confirm nor deny what kind of secret sauce goes into all the subtleties between the men’s and women’s models. But if the rand is tensioned less than a lighter weight, climber is gonna, basically have the same throttle the same power as a heavier weight. Climber would, in the men’s, shoe so they’re trying to keep it even across the board so that if you’re a lighter weight climber with a lower volume, foot you’re still going to get the same level of performance as you would being a higher weight climber with a higher volume foot.

So that’s basically what they’re aiming for so the La Sportiva Theory will retail at $190 and will be released spring 2020, so we’re hoping to see the shoe land June, / May May at the earliest June at the latest of next year. So La Sportiva is gonna, come out with the very specific D-Tech sole that we have on these shoes, so these will be fully resoleable, so you’ll basically get a factory pad from La Sportiva with Vibram XS Grip rubber.

So you, basically, if you can maintain this rand rubber here and not blow this out, then you can basically get a brand new shoe with a brand new sole on it. That’s already broken in so that’ll. Be awesome. We’re gonna support this. The same way we do with the Futurasand the No-Edge soles yeah. These are gonna, kill it. This is like the all-new shoe the solution. Comp is awesome too, and I think people are really excited about that.

But this shoe is a brand new shoe brand new technology in it, the tooling that they use to cut these soles out and to taper the rubber is really wild and they’re the only ones doing stuff like that. So yeah, that’s, really cool we’re psyched about these I just want to say it almost looks like the orgy. Where does it say that oh yeah yeah, the La Sportiva orgy, the orgy from La Sportiva? Very European they have new ideas over there.

Even the Pope approves he’s down super super progressive he’s trying to hang on to that tithing all right. So the orgy has a lot of rubber a lot of sticky rubber, I’m screwed, because it’s just orgy in my head now. That’s it there’s nothing else and sticky rubber. The theory behind the theory.

Hi guys Paul here, a rock spot, climbing South, Boston location and today we’re climbing in the finale and finale woman’s from La Sportiva. The finale is lost for Chivas replacement for the popular na go that was discontinued earlier this year the Naga was best known for its comfort and its predecessor is no different. The finale has a flat profile and an unlined leather upper which provides a forum fit after a few sessions.

This shoe is a great all-around err, but the vibram access edged rubber enables it for best on vertical to less than vertical routes, and problems. Beginner and seasoned climbers alike can appreciate its ability to be worn for extended periods of time, whether you’re getting in an endurance day at the gym or climbing a few pitches outside. Thanks for watching make sure you check out the finale to rock spot climbing near you.

And it’s hella exhausting to make that thumbnail holy crap these these are heavy man. These are heavy. What is up, ladies and gentlemen, here welcome back to the channel. I just recently reviewed the scarpa instinct vs, so I thought why not just review all of my climbing shoes, even those that I still have from way back in the day when I started climbing, I thought it could be interesting. Maybe we can draw some interesting comparisons, some conclusions from that who knows? Obviously we cannot get into as much detail as we usually go into when it comes to climbing shoe reviews, but I thought it could be interesting.

Do you see this? This is start of a very, very long story. I tried my best to roughly order the shoes chronologically, starting with the more recent ones and then going back in time, and I also tried to roughly order them in terms of root climbing shoes with this bouldering shoes and everything like that. You know what without further ado, let’s just pull this thing here and see what comes up first. Okay, maybe you get some time stomps too, to see I mean if you want to skip certain models compared to others, and here we already have our good scapa instinct vs.

This is, I would say, a moderately hard shoe in terms of hardness. The rubber is a vibram xs edge. If I’m not mistaken, we’ve got one simple closure system: relatively solid uh, tow hook relatively good heel hook. This is simply a good shoe. I would say it’s more for the slightly vertical to overhanging vertical, to slightly overhanging terrain. I would say because of the hardness- and I thought I had really good results on climbing routes with this one, but I think, if you’re more into bouldering- and you want to try vertical boulders, you know more technical problems where a lot of weight reaches your toe tips.

This is a great shoe, actually doesn’t stretch a lot. It’s all synthetic materials and uh yeah also really solid heel hook. I mean this makes in general a really solid impression compared to what I think is coming up. Next, let’s keep pulling let’s keep pulling here. Oh here we have this garba drago, another scapa model, even more recent, more actual uh, more up-to-date. So to say, this is more modern, very, very soft.

Shoe I’ve reviewed this one in a specific review as well um. As you can see, we’ve got a huge toe hook. Here, got a nice solid heel hook as well. Although I must say they didn’t even disclose the heel hook as much as they did on the skarpa instinct. Although this seems to be a more bouldering oriented shoe where we of course want it, we would like to have a super disclosed heel hook right but other than that super soft shoe, not as good and good in hot conditions.

In my opinion, the shoe almost melts away below your feet and, as you can see, I’m I was really unlucky there with one boulder in alberta scene. I almost ruined the shoe in in over the course of one hour trying this boulder, because there was one very sharp foothold for the left foot so yeah in terms of durability. I would give the scapa instinct here by far the edge, but in terms of, of course, pure bouldering performance.

This thing is a weapon, it’s very aggressive. It comes very aggressively, but it loses the downturn actually quite a bit in my experience more rapidly than the scapa instinct vs by the way, and once this one is broken in in terms of downturn and softness of the rubber and everything it turns out that it’s actually a pretty good shoe again for vertical terrain. This thing is only good for super overhanging, stuff, very modern stuff.

You know 3d overhanging type of bouldering and stuff. Let’s keep pulling oh look at what comes up here. This is the shoe that I climb when I don’t go for a project or I warm up or some stuff like that. I always have something like this in my backpack, this is the las pativa katana, the more recent version of it, and I think it is also the the lady version. If you take a look at it, um it, it is already pretty worn through, as you can see, I’m basically climbing this.

All I’ve been climbing. This all the time when I don’t project super intensely uh, it’s a super stiff shoe it’s a very flat design, also very shallow toe box, so you can get into into the tiny pockets. With this thing, as you can see, we’ve also got a very pointy toe box, so we can get into the small footholds. This is obviously anything from slabby to vertical to maybe slightly overhanging terrain. If it’s becoming more overhanging, we want to have something more aggressive.

We want to have something more downturned. As you can see, the heel hook is very far from ideal as well. We’ve got a huge, not not disclosed patch of rubber there, and what we see here as well with the las pativa design, is the uh heel hook. Rubber patch here is completely let free compared to the scapa, where they have solved this elegantly by going over it with the diagonal rubber here, because here, if we heal hook too often something happens, and that is that we rip open- and you can see this here already- we rip away this kind of heel hook patch rubber there, and this way the heel hook becomes more and more useless right.

So yeah this is the katana. We don’t have anything for toe hooking on there. It’s a bit of a pity because- and I think any more modern shoe should have that but yeah. Obviously, this is for root climbing and there even more for the vertical and slightly overhang terrain, not nothing too modern, nothing too overhanging. So what we have here this is the 510 team. You all know this one. I think I’ve made a specific review on this shoe as well already um super aggressive shoe.

This is a very, very old model. I think I climbed this shoe, maybe three years ago or something this particular model here and, as you can see, it still kept the downturn. It still kept. The aggressiveness, the only reason why I stopped climbing this shoe back in the day is because the rubber on the toe box up here down here on the sole it was actually getting so thin, because I was climbing this model so long I mean the durability of this model.

Is of this shoe in general, is just amazing: okay, you can climb it and climb it and climb it, and you won’t poke a hole in here and when it got so thin that I almost could feel that what that my toe was literally standing on the on the rocks without anything in between you know, I thought: okay man, I just uh, stop climbing the shoe until I find a proper resolving service and then I’m just gonna simply resole it and climb it again for so much time right, and this is actually what I want to do still with this model.

I still haven’t done it so far, because I always had the opportunity to get another new model of the 510 teams um, but yeah. I still need to resolve this guy and keep climbing this guy super aggressive. Shoe. We’ve got the stealth rubber on here, which is the 510 rubber super durable. Despite that has awesome grip. The shoe is extremely light. It’s more like a rubber sock than anything got a nice tow hook patch here, a fully disclosed heel hook.

So this is also something for the elite boulder. Definitely, you can do a lot of 3d stuff with this super overhanging um, but you can also climb super hard routes with this, and this is something that I underestimated about this shoe actually for quite some time and we’re gonna talk about this in a second when we compare it with another model, let’s keep pulling. Oh. What comes up here. Look at that another model of the 510 team, an even older one.

As you can see, this is already resold once okay and only after resoling and again climbing it, for- I think I think, half a year or something the shoe kind of lost a bit of its downturn here. As you can see, the toe box is a bit less downturned as it should be. On the you know, this is what makes the difference up here. This uh fine little curve in the toes, because here it’s flat- and here it’s curved- and this really helps you to get into those big.

You know footholds and overhangs, where not a lot of weight reaches the toe tips to really literally grab those footholds. So if you want, this is almost like a barefoot shoe right when it’s super super soft. It’s super sensible in this way yeah and if we take a look at this, for example the scapa drago okay, the drago comes with the same amount of aggressiveness as the team when it’s new, but as you can see, the scapa loses its downturn in the toe box super quickly.

It looks more like this resold version of the 510 team. Now, and this is what I mean you know, a good shoe keeps its downturn and I don’t really know honestly how they did it with the 510 teams to keep its downturn so well, but it just works. Amazingly so yeah here we’ve got a result. Version of the 510 team, as you can see. What happens with time is that you simply rip apart this uh top this tow hook. Here, um yeah: this is, of course, some something that simply happens with use with time uh.

I think I’ve climbed this model for like three years or something. Okay, three years, sorry, I’m gonna keep dangling and shooting the microphone around here. I hope you don’t mind. Let’s get these bad boys here on to the other side, make space for another model, lookie lookie. What we’ve got here. This is a las pativa solution, a shoe which is climbed by so many super strong climbers. It’s not even believable, I pers.

This is also why I had to try the the model. This is a new model. Actually, oh man, I think we’re gonna have troubles here pulling on the shoes. This rope has its own quite interesting story, but anyway uh. So this shoe here, I bought it new because I had to try it because most of the pros climb it right a lot of the pros climb it. What I noticed instantly I had it back then, with a little bit warmer conditions and instantly the rubber started to smear off and become loose, and I lost a lot of.

I think I clamped this model for two weeks or something I lost incredibly much of the rubber, and this is only uh logical because we’re working here with the xs grip vibram rubber, the excess grip too for that matter, but it is a xs grip and they just wear off so quickly, man, okay, so this is another issue that I have with the shoe the same basically issue the same basic issue that I have with the drago it’s durability.

First of all, and second of all, this, the shoe is super bulky. It didn’t really fit onto my foot. Well, although it’s not super wide right, I mean. If we compare this to katana, the katana is wider. For some reason I fit very well into the katana and not at all into the solution, and it’s interesting because I have a more narrow foot, so I actually should fit in there. Although people with wider feet fit into the solution very well as I’ve heard as well, we got an interesting closure system here with the bands I heard this is not a deal as well, because in terms of durability, these bands wear off quite quickly and then sooner or later you’re there with a loose band.

You know because it just rips off um yeah super bulky shoe at least the heel hook is disclosed fully. We’ve got a nice moderate uh toe hook rubber patch. The shoe is, I don’t know I. I was not good friends with this shoe for some reason. I cannot really and that’s why I put it away at some point and went back to something, that’s better for me, simply the 510 team right and since then they are hanging onto this shoe rope here and I haven’t used them ever since this is some sort of a reserve model for me that I use when everything else fails.

Let’s keep pulling oh here. We’ve got something interesting as well. I need to be careful that I don’t ruin my audio setup here. We’ve got a scarpa vapor here. This is an amazing beginner shoe, maybe one of the best beginner shoes out there, it’s a bit better than the uh spotiva katana. In my opinion, the shoes are very comparable okay. So if you would compare any of these in the collection, these two they’ve got two uh velcros here, the the yeah.

It’s got two velcro velcros as well. We don’t see any tow hook. Patch we’ve got a not really disclosed heel hook, so these are almost the same shoes just from different brands. Right they tried to brand this um. This uh concept here of the more beginner oriented shoe just under different brands. We see a very flat design and here’s the thing I climbed the scapa vapor here, I think, roughly for the same time as the la sportiva solution and what are the las pativa katana, and what we see here is incredible: wear off in the katana a bit more preservation here in the vapor, and we also see that the vapor kept its flat design a lot better than the katana.

For some reason, the katana always makes with time this this angle down here, where the toe box literally bends up again back up. Okay, and this is of course horrible when it comes to support for the vertical climbs, the slightly overhanging climbs, where a lot of weight reaches the toe tips, which is what we have these shoe shoes for in the first time in the first place right. So somehow the scapa vapor um kept this flatness a lot better, which is why, if you want to go for a um for a more beginner-oriented shoe, I would rather recommend the scapa vapor than the sky than the la sportiva katana.

We’ve got here an xs edge rubber, so this shoe is also decently hard, which is good for the um for the more vertical stuff. I think it’s the same rubber on the uh katana. Let me see if I can find the patch here. No, I can’t find it, I’m not even sure if spotiva is so crazy, maybe and uses excess grip or something on katanas. That would be crazy. I don’t think they do that, but I think they use xs edge as well so yeah.

These shoes are decent in terms of durability and they obviously are designed for yeah the flat terrain. You know more vertical stuff, slightly overhanging stuff, let’s move on, let’s keep pulling. Oh. What do we have here? This is a very interesting model as well. What we see here is the las potiva pouton. If I’m not mistaken. Yes, of course, this is the python I’m keeping. I have to throw the other ones on the other side here down, it’s interesting, how heavy these shoes get with time.

Man in case you’re curious how I preserved them for such a long time when I decided to not climb them anymore, I just simply threw them into a washing machine without any you know, without any solvents or anything I just washed them with water in the washing machine, and then I put them on the rope, and now they keep very well. They are also decently clean, as you can see, so they don’t dusting up the room or anything they’re, not dusting up the room.

So here we have the python. This is a way, a shoe that dates way back into the days where I basically only climbed indoors on in this old school bouldering gym that I’ve talked about so often already has one super simple velcro system, with this cool with this cool flexi pulley thing here on. This is something that I haven’t seen on any other shoe so far, and this gives gives the shoe a really tight fit a really comfortable fit uh.

We’ve got a decent uh tow hook. Rubber here got a fully disclosed heel hook. Isn’t that amazing for such a basic shoe? That’s amazing! Um again, we see here the diagonal rubber, covering up the the heel hook patch up here to prevent it from coming off with time. So las pativa put a lot of thought into this shoe actually right they and this shoe was back. Then I think one of the more cheap models and today, if it’s still available uh, I don’t know actually about that, but if it’s still available, I think this is also one of the more cheap models.

This is amazing for climbing boulders indoors. I think, and also outdoors for that matter, I’ve clamped this, as I said, almost solely indoors, with very good results. I don’t see the rubber diffused there on now. I think it’s a more hard rubber. It feels like a at least an xs edge. If I’m not mistaken, let me know if you know it um. I think this is actually resold. Okay, so I’m not sure if this is the right comparison.

This is a very hard one as well as you can see, there is something written on there. So I think these are result. Let’s let’s push this one. This is the original. I think I think this is xs grip rubber. This is very soft. Let’s, let’s, let’s you push into the toe box really easily, and this is definitely something harder, maybe excess edge or even stealth. I don’t know if I was already so smart back then to know that stealth is more or less the best climbing shoe rubber.

So I just simply always when I resolve the shoes I put on stealth rubber there, because it’s just a safe bet, so to say, but yeah. This comes probably with something like excess grip, so probably also not very good in terms of durability, but in terms of a simple, not so expensive, bouldering shoe. This is super good man. This is super good. This is definitely comparable to something like the scarpa drago over here.

Also, when it’s new, you know it’s coming really uh downturned, it’s coming really aggressive. Here we have the drago for ex for comparison. Also, the drago seems to be a lot bigger right. I think one of the main downsides with these shoes and the stuff that’s coming up here after- is that they they stretched so much because here we are stepping onto the terrain of real leather right. This is not synthetic leather here on the python, so these shoes stretch a lot you had to.

I remember you had to downsize them so much in the shop because they would stretch so much later on already in the first week of trying them of using them, and this is why I always use the plastic sheet to get my heel into the shoe so that I can downsize them even more right, so yeah. This is the usual climbing shoe climbers craziness. Let’s keep pulling, I would say, okay, so let’s try to get the shoes here around the corner.

Something interesting comes up here. This is the speedster, the las pativa speedster man, this this shoe dates also way back in the day. I used this one almost exclusively in the climbing gym that I was in for bouldering uh on the 45er and also on other hard terrains. Super good for overhangs as well, comes really aggressively and loses its downturn really quickly. Okay, so in that regard not a good shoe in my opinion, then it can.

We have this no edge technique or this no edge technology as they called it back. Then they um they market that this is the super new invention of climbing shoes, and now you don’t have to step so accurately anymore. Well, this is a loss. This is a loose lucid. In my opinion, this is a loss because um you want a very sharp and accurate edge, especially if you want to climb super tiny footholds right. Every pro knows that if you use something like something like a speedster outdoors- and you happen to bump into a very super small technical, precise foothold, you’re having more troubles with that- that’s at least my experience with it, and this only makes sense if you look at something like a sharp edge like on the like on this cup.

Okay, now it’s too far away it’s too far away already, but if you’re having a sharp edge on top of the toe box here, obviously you can step much more precisely, but you also have to step much more precisely right. You are able to miss a foothold like that. If you’re having a round edge like this well, the tolerance for missing a foothold is much greater. You can step a bit of a bit up of it and you’re still gonna hit it.

You can step a bit below it and you’re still gonna hit it to some degree. So this shoe allows for a bit of inaccuracy so to say with the no edge technology, but it doesn’t give you the security, the support of something that is a sharp edge when it comes to very small footholds- and this is one of the downsides of this shoe, but I didn’t really notice it back then, because I only climbed it indoors on the 45 or did my bowlers.

You know just this. Was my training shoe essentially just like the python, my training shoe. I think I hardly ever climbed this one outdoors. If ever I don’t remember exactly anymore, okay, but yeah interesting shoe just a slipper, you know not really a closure system. We see a very flexy tongue up here. This is for slipping into the shoe easily in and out so definitely something for more constipated for bouldering the toe hook.

Rubber is uh yeah, it’s minimal, but it’s working. I I remember it. I have used it a lot and it was it was working back. Then it was awesome. You know an upgrade from the katana to this shoe. It was like wow. Now we are in such a modern shoe, we have a tow hook, patch rubber now and we can use it and we have so much grip on the toes and everything fun times, man fun times so yeah, that’s the speedster interesting shoe, and now we are bumping into something epic.

So, let’s just let me let me move this over here a little bit the microphone gets in the in the way a lot. I hope you you forgive me the the sound inaccuracies here a little bit. This is a la sportiva miura and this is the original aspartiva miura. Okay. This is one of the most precious models that I actually have in this collection. I don’t even know if they are still available nowadays, I haven’t looked it up to be honest, but this is a very precious model.

This is the shoe that I climbed my first hard outdoor routes on hard routes. I mean that is a day. I think I climbed my first 8a in this shoe and the original one. As you can see, this one is already resold. This was a shoe that would really really well react to one resole process. Okay, so it didn’t lose all of its performance just because someone put a new sole on there, and this was for some reason. It was just amazing.

It’s a very, very narrow, shoe a relatively narrow shoe with a relatively pointy toe box. It’s a lasers, okay! So this one. Actually, you had to lay still and it gives the shoe a very, very tight and accurate fit on your foot and do you know who actually inspired me to um to get this shoe? It was at a monroe back in the day I saw some climbing videos of adam andra and he wore this shoe. The las pativa miura lasers and I was instantly psyched.

I thought: okay man. If these dudes climb the shoe, then I gotta get them and I still remember ordering them and then they did not fit. I sent them back. I got another model, then they fit it, and I was in the end, really really happy with this shoe. This is definitely an outdoor climbing shoe a root climbing shoe. We can see that there is not a lot of heel hook there again, the not as good heel hook and not as well crafted as on the scalpel models.

They don’t uh. You know pull it down here. I like they did on the python by the way la spotiva. So I can’t give them too much crap here, but here they didn’t so for heel hooking. It was clear if you do a lot of heel. Hooking with the shoe you’re gonna lose this patch of rubber here with time, but apart from that, as you can see, also no significant tow hook features here or anything. This shoe just lifts from its stiffness because it’s very stiff from the sharp edge super precise and it’s really narrow.

Okay, so you can be really precise and technical, with this shoe and on outdoor climbs, slightly overhanging to vertical, where a lot of weight reaches the toe tips. Okay, this shoe was just amazing yeah for some reason, one of the one of the shoes that I look back the most now one of the more prized models here in this collection- and this leads me into another very, very prized model of this collection- and this is the uh, the las puertiva testa rossa, one of the best I mean we have reached here.

You should be aware of that. Okay, we have reached here the pinnacle of las pativa, climbing shoe craftsmanship when we are bumping into the la sportiva miura and the las patifa testa rossa, and I’m not even sure which one of the two is the better shoe, because the tester rossa is almost like a just a bit more aggressive, miura lasers. As you can see, we’ve got lasers on here as well. I actually would need to make separate shoe reviews for for either of these models because they actually deserve it.

Okay, they I’ve climbed so much hard stuff in these models. I think in the testarossa I climbed my first 8a plus. So this is what I climbed my first 8a in the the miura, and then I started out on 8a, for I think one year or one and a half years or something and the tester also was the one that helped me break through this plateau, not because of the tester also, but the tester also is simply a good shoe. It keeps its downturn.

Okay, look at this la sportiva knows how to do it. Actually, they know how to do it. They know how to keep the downturn in the toe box. Why is this not the case with all the other models with the testarossa? It is the case. I’ve climbed this shoe for months, even maybe one year or something like that, and this shoe still kept the downturn in the toe box. Look at that. We have a not significant tohoku, touhou grabber patch, it’s basically not existent.

The heel hook is also very very minimalistic. It is super super thin here and if you take a close look uh, they came up with a super piece. Thin super thin piece of rubber here, made a curve and then went down again and here they they tightened it down with this diagonal piece of rubber there, which is a good practice, as I’ve said before. So that’s good, but in terms of heel hooking, you had this super soft, not very sticky, uh piece of rubber there and a huge patch of non-disclosed uh heel hook here.

So the heel hook was also not really good on this shoe. But the shoe was just so good in terms of toe box and you can see how how pointy it is. You can see how asymmetric it is. It is also a very narrow shoe a relatively narrow shoe, so it fitted quite well on my narrow foot. We’ve got leather real leather here, so the shoe stretched out quite a bit, so you had to take this into account. The lacing system is amazing for some reason.

The lacing here is very, very tight and very accurate. It fits it fits the shoe very nicely onto your foot and yeah. The performance of the shoe is just amazing. I remember still climbing in this shoe. It was amazing now that I think back to it, I might have to get a new model of this shoe because I think the tester roster is still available. I think it costs quite a lot of money. It’s quite an expensive shoe.

I got this one back in the day in aqua, I think where they sold it for a significantly lower price. This is why I bought it, and I know I don’t regret it man. Maybe I just slip into this shoe once and see if it still fits me and if it still fits, I might try it or I might resolve it and actually keep climbing it. Who knows, let’s keep pulling so what we have next. This is a modern miura. As you can see, this is, I think, the modern miura lady version.

I always did quite well with the lady shoes, because one of the most significant characteristics of lady shoes, if you compare them to the male models, is that they are more narrow, because women tend to have narrower feet, and this is something that fits onto my feet quite well as well. A little bit foot coming here into the camera, as you can see- hopefully it wasn’t too dirty anyway, we see a very, very pointy toe box, which is something that’s good, because it gives you a lot of precision, as I’ve said before it comes with with the velcros here.

Okay, so I don’t know why they made the decision to go from something awesome like this: the original miura, which has lasers to something that has velcros okay, the velcros are, and especially, if you have three velcros right, then you have quite some effort putting on this shoe anyway, so you could go with lasers there and have a even tighter and even a more accurate fit. In my opinion, that’s just my personal opinion.

I think it’s a bit also personal preference, whether you prefer the lasers or the velcros, but anyway this shoe is very, very stiff. Okay, it is designed for the vertical and slightly overhanging terrain as the uh original miura. That was with lasers, but did I like this model as much as the lasers? For some reason? No, I don’t know it doesn’t fit. My shoe my foot as well simply as the original lasers for some reason.

This is why I never resolved this shoe. I just climbed it to the end, and then I uh I finished it so, in my opinion, the old uh, the old miura, gets the edge here. If I would have to recommend something but yeah. This is of obviously for root. Climbing again a quite decent shoe right. Super stiff got a lot of support slightly overhang to vertical terrain. I would say: let’s keep pulling oh they’re bumping into something interesting, my friends.

Let’s keep going sorry microphone stand. So what do we have here almost reaching the end of this chain? Amazing? This is a 510 dragon. This was for the longest time my second favorite climbing shoe of them all in while being the favorite was the the 510 team, okay, 510 dragon. Why we again have this stealth rubber super, durable, super, much grip! The shoe is very light very thin. It’s like a rubber sock. We see not a lot of tow hook, though, on this one.

We see a fully disclosed heel hook on this one like on the 510 team, so they for their standard models. Just said: okay, let’s disclose the heel hook fully. We don’t have any downsides with that. Why not? This is something that I would expect from all the other brands as well. Just simply disclose that freaking heel hook. It doesn’t cost you that much more rubber, okay and you get you charge so much money for these shoes.

You can definitely disclose the heel hook and uh yeah, not not save your own rubber or anything. We’ve got lasers really tight fit, and this is actually the reason why I had this shoe in the first place, and not only 510 teams. Okay, because in terms of climbing performance- and I should realize this later- the 510 team actually trumps, the 510 dragon a little bit and why? What happens with the dragon is that he loses a bit of its downturn with time and in that regard, the 510 team just simply is better than the dragon.

If I would uh have to use, if I would have to buy another ideal 510 model for route climbing, I would go again for the 510 team, because I climb all the I can climb all the routes that I want to climb in the 510 team. Not there is not really any routes that I can climb only in the dragon which I cannot do in the team. It’s not like the dragon is much more fitted for vertical terrain or slightly overhang terrain than the team, because it’s still very aggressive when it’s coming and when it’s new it just loses the aggressiveness a bit with time.

So in that regard we could say yeah. Maybe the dragon is a bit more fitted for vertical to slightly overhanging terrain, because it simply loses the downturn a bit kind of like the same story as with the scapa instinct vs right. It comes very aggressive, but loses the downturn a bit and once it lost its downturn, it’s actually super ideal for them for the more vertical stuff. So um this the same effect kind of happens here with the dragon, which is why it is maybe a bit better for vertical to slightly overhang stuff, but I would if I would have to get a new 510 model.

I would still go with the team and climb the vertical slightly overhanging stuff in the team as well. Okay, it’s not like the team has so little support on the toes that you can’t climb it really but yeah the dragon amazing shoe. I was looking for something with lasers, because I had made such good experiences with the with the las pativa miura lasers. Okay, and this is the main advantage over the 510 team. I would say that we have the lasers and uh the lasers.

Give this shoe a really accurate and tight fit, but, to be honest, the one velcro system of the 510 team does that as well? Quite well, okay, so yeah. But this is the dragon one of my favorite root, climbing shoes that I had back in the day. You can, of course, very well use this for bouldering if you’re working with some bowlers that don’t necessarily require super awesome. He tow hooks here, okay, because the tow hook, the tow hook on this shoe, is decent at best, as you can see right, they they don’t have a lot of rubber here.

In that regard, the 510 team is a lot better, but yeah for root climbing. This is just amazing as well super light as well all synthetic. So this doesn’t stretch you don’t have to downsize this in the shop. And finally, we come to something that is this thing here. This is the tenaya or asus or oaoazi. I think not oasis orwasi uh awesome shoe. This is the only model of tanaya that I tried. I remember back in the day.

I got this one from from epic tv to review. Actually that was great times. What I really don’t like about. The shoe is the closure system, because I know that it wears out with time. You’re gonna lose these bands here with time, because the metal ring, just simply, you know, works them off with time. I don’t know why. They left the patch here open in terms of toe hooking. I suppose it makes the shoe much more comfortable and that’s why they did it, but you’d obviously lose a lot of tow hook security there then they could have spared the tow hook patch at all.

Right we’ve got a non-disclosed heel hook here, so we can see that this shoe and it’s also very flat, is definitely designed for root climbing and, in that regard, it’s uh more designed for the vertical stuff. Okay, the verticals to slightly overhanging terrain, something that really stands out about this model is the comfort when you slip into it. Okay, the the tenaya in that regard could be a beginner oriented shoe as well, because it’s just so comfortable the rubber is quite amazing.

It’s quite stiff. We see xs. Oh, we see xs grip rubber, as I see now so. This is actually not so awesome. For some reason, though, this rubber held up quite well. I remembered climbing this shoe for a long time. Okay and the rubber held up quite well, it’s also decently stiff still. What we can see, though, is that here it’s losing the support quite significantly. Okay, it’s losing the downturn. If it has any when it’s new it almost does not have any downturn.

I think the tanayawazi, as I remember, but as you can see, it loses it quite significantly with time so yeah, but the shoe is awesome. I clamped it for a long time and I think I also climbed a lot of hard stuff in these shoes. Okay, so definitely recommendable. I don’t know how expensive they are nowadays um, I think back in the day, they were definitely more of the expensive one of the more expensive models.

And finally, we have another gem. This is andrea, borderini. Okay, I only heard stuff about these shoes that they are awesome, blah blah blah blah. They are super expensive as well. That’s what I know I didn’t buy these. I actually found these at some craig. I don’t know anymore where I found them. I took them with me because they looked like they would wither away there at the crack in some sort of moss plant or something, and then I wrote into a forum and climbing forum if anybody lost the the arduino, andrea portrinis at the craig, so to say- and nobody got back to me and since then I have these shoes, I tried them once and it’s they seem to fit my foot quite well.

As you can see, they are super flat. Okay, not downturned at all, so I don’t know which um, which which model this is. It says andrea, borderini, fabrique on france. That’s all it says, but not really what kind of model this is anyway. I thought if I do something like a multi-pitch or something like that for at some point, these shoes could come in very handy because they are very comfortable. As you can see, they are very flat.

They give a lot of support. This is definitely something that could work quite well on slavic terrain, okay or uh yeah, and that’s why I kept them, because maybe I might find some of the the multi-pitch awesomeness at some point and then I can use this shoe and I think, with the andrea borderini that I found that some craig is on some point. Oh by the way they are resold. As I see now, I think they already sold super big rubber patch on the resolving here wow.

This is gonna last for ages, probably anyway, that’s it. We went through a history of climbing shoes, um that I’ve used nowadays and back in the days was an interesting journey. I have to say was these all the climbing shoes that I ever owned? No, not at all. I think I owns even two pairs of the speedsters, of which I only have now one left interesting. Interestingly, from only one side, wherever the other one is gone, I don’t know anymore.

I definitely had more pairs of the team than are hanging on this rope here and I definitely had more katanas and uh that kind of stuff. You know the stuffs that wear out super quickly, but are more for the vertical terrains and the slightly overhanging stuff. So these are not all the shoes that I ever owned, but these this is, I think, a good sample size of what I used to climb with and still used to climb, as you could see a lot of uh yeah models that I’m quite emotionally attached almost to because I planned so much hard stuff in.

I definitely would like to try the tester roster again. Maybe I buy a new tester also at some point or I resold the one that is down here. Maybe it still fits me. I hope you enjoyed the episode. I hope you got something from it for your own, climbing shoe game. Maybe you got some, you know insights. Maybe you got some interesting comparisons. Maybe you got a hint to what could fit for your foot right for your climbing style.

Also, let me know down below if you would like to see a more specific, climbing shoe review of any of these models. Again I have these, so I could make one if you desire so and drop a like if you’re down there already that’s appreciated as usual helps the channel helps the algorithm so go for it thanks. That’s awesome guys, I hope you’re having a great one, keep crushing the weather is again awesome here in austria.

Let’s see what we’re doing with this wonderful day, see you soon bye.

Can we just take a second to appreciate okay, so there is one thing that bugs me about this shoe, but if you watch my other videos, this probably won’t come off as a big surprise, and it is of course the excess grip 2 rubber. Honestly, at this point, I’m not going to bother ranting about it, because, despite my gripe with the rubber, the shoe is damn near perfect.

In every other aspect, designed as a performance shoe, the squamous are a fairly aggressive downturn, climbing shoe with an eight millimeter last proflex midsole, making it a great shoe for pulling on steeper terrain. It’s all held together by their patented p3 ram system, which has become pretty much a staple feature of the last petite high-end shoe lineup.

The midsole provides a little extra support, but I’ve never found it to really hamper the overall flexibility of the shoe, while climbing the shoes are a microfiber and suede construction with a single velcro strap for easy. Securing the soles are designed with a removed piece of rubber to allow more flexibility and contact with the surface regarding stretching expect a bit of stretch after breaking them.

In for reference, my street shoe size is a uk six with my squamous size to a uk four and a half the toe patch at the top is seated pretty high up giving you plenty of coverage and, from my experience very little delaminate, so another tip for the design. Is there, though, do expect just a little bit if you tend to do a lot of tow hooks, it’s a very thin patch of rubber.

So there’s plenty of freedom for you to move your feet into the desired positions. Just expect it there more for friction rather than any sort of protection. Now the overall last and fit of the shoot is where I have to hand it to the team at las vegas. The asymmetrical design ensures power to the big toe with the toe box catering for those who have a bit of a wider foot, nothing specifically new, but I do have to say it feels like these shoes were just meant for my feet.

The heel cup, along with this special little piece of rubber, is what they’ve dubbed the s heel, designed to specifically give the heel extra support to stop it from deforming from outside pressure, ie heel hooking. Basically, what that means is more stability when performing heel hooks, since the actual shoe won’t move around, which also means more power being directly transferred to the rock.

When you put everything together, you get a vacuum-like fit that leaves virtually no air pockets around the heel. Honestly, it’s amazingly comfortable and I legitimately consider this the cinderella glass slipper of the climbing world. Of course, it always has to be said that everyone’s feet profiles are different, so someone with a narrower foot most likely will find it a bit roomier.

But as far as I’m concerned, this is probably the best fitting shoe for my lineup and if it fits you, I highly doubt you’ll be complaining. The surface area contact that results from the spread of the rubber from the little cut out notch makes it a great choice for volume, climbs and smearing, and the overall softness makes it very easy to flex your feet for techniques such as tow hooks and coordination type of movements, which makes it a great shoe for indoor climbers, though I am a little bit more partial to softer rubber just so that I can have that extra stickiness for outdoor climbers, the excess grip 2 rubber is definitely growing on me as a good balance between sensitivity and stiffness.

Just for overall longevity of the shoe, the edging performance handles pretty much exactly what you would expect to from a high-end climbing shoe, but in both cases, indoor and outdoor. I do think that this is a brilliant shoe. All around the shoe design comes in a yellow and black collar, which you can see here and more recently, a fresh new black and poppy look, both of which I really dig to be honest.

With a fairly steep 197 price tag. Some people might think twice about investing in a pair, but I would definitely recommend you trying them out at least once because, if you find that they fit your feet, you’ll probably love them as much as I do. If the last potato team ever designed this shoe with a softer rubber, like 510 stealth or bettora’s neofuse.

This above all else, would be my go-to shoe specifically for indoor climbing, but still despite it being exoscript 2, I would still 100 buy a second pair in the future and once the rubber wears out, I’m planning on resoling the entire thing, potentially with a stickier compound, just to see what the results would be like and that pretty much wraps up my review on these shoes.

I just want to take this time to thank all of you guys, who’ve been watching my videos and subscribe to the channel. I want my channel to be a place where all of us climbers can gather around and discuss and geek out over everything climbing. So if you haven’t subscribed yet, please consider just crimping down on that little subscribe button somewhere down here and for those of you who have bought a pair of scrums before.

Let me know down in the comments below what you guys thought of them. Did you love him? Did you hate him till next time happy sending.

Come on mankind’s many invasions by far the most innovative were the wheel farming and the ball. If the wheel contributed in simplifying man’s life, the other two inventions brought with them new problems. In fact, goats and balls often ended up in the top branches of trees or on top of Rock Falls, and although the invention of the hatchets made it easier to get them down in the meantime, the mountains were full of goats and bulls.

It was not until the invention of the mountain boots some years later, that getting them back became much easier. Once all the goats had been gathered up and the balls had been retrieved, a man continued to climb mountains for fun. They saw the birth of modern mountaineering. The main objective of the first climbers was to reach the summit using every means at their disposal.

Other time by far, the most important piece of equipment was the climbing boot, an element that is still vital piece of climbing equipment. Today, with the technology available, then, however, it was impossible to combine food sensitivity and the ability to support the weight of the climber of years. The volition in climbing shoes has gone hand in hand with that of a climbing movement, and a style of climbing has become more important than reaching the summit itself.

Our concern, as manufacturers of climbing shoes, has always been to provide climbers with products that help them to move more freely and naturally, over the rock surveys. La Sportiva is proud to present the evolution of the climbing shoe tradition, no edge technology and these as much more to do with God symbols in one might ever imagine the no edge technology develops the hue around the natural shape of the food completely revolutionizing.

The concept of traditional climbing shoes, unlike traditional climbing shoes, no edge technology, traces, the shape of a food, avoiding sharp edges and maintaining a closer and more uniform distance between the food and rock surface. During both the static and dynamic phase of running the rounded shape labels to shoot when Hilton rock in a homogeneous manner and a greater rubber surface allows a climber to vary.

The position and inclination of the food on the holds in traditional climbing choose. The pressure exerted by the climber focuses more on the profile of the sole, with no edge construction. Weight of the climber is distributed more evenly on a greater amount of surface. Rather, this is evident by the type where to which the boot is exposed, with no edge models.

The wear is distributed on a much wider Sol surface than in traditional climbing shoes. In conclusion, no edge technology is sensational no more than sensational. It’s amazing fluid instinctive fun bubbly wonderful, perfect. However, if this is not enough trying to focus your efforts into other activities, such as a farming or playing ball, for example,.