How’s it going. This is Alex from the logic and we’re going to do a short optimizer. Ultra is kind of like the Big Brother to the optimizer lite site, the biggest difference. If people are going to notice is it’s got a dial instead of a slider and the dial makes for a little bit quicker, smoother and easier adjustments.

The nicest thing, though, about it, is that the site tape on the dial is marked for every yard. It’s got a mark verses every five for the optimizer light, so you can see that major distances here marked the minor distances are marked in between and then, if you look close on here, you can see there’s a tick for every single yardage out to the end of the site tape.

So you can. If you want to range at 38 yards, you can get on that really precisely and then you can lock it down. It’s got all the HHA sites have really good locking mechanism better than any other locking mechanism on a single pin, site and I can say that pretty confidently, because I have a bunch of sites sitting here in front of me, so HHA does have a little bit of a reputation for getting rust on the hardware.

This is a not an old site by any means, but it does have a little bit of rust on this bolt here and there was a tiny bit on this on here. I don’t have any rust on the optimizer light, but for this site, for some reason, just got a little bit of rust in there. So you got two different mounting holes to mount this to your riser.

You can get it. You know closer to the riser or further out from the riser, whichever you prefer, and then you have a hole for your quiver and it comes with a little adapter pieces that make it easier to mount the quiver. If you use the center mount quiver um, one of the other knocks and the hhas is that the light and the ultra the adjustment does get blocked a little bit by the arrows, depending on which quiver you use I use, depending on what kind of bow I’m shooting like with the white one-piece quiver.

It does kind of get in the way a little bit, which is unfortunate, but that’s just kind of the nature of a sight that has the adjustment in the back instead of in the front like spot hog or the black gold. So you got a couple different housing mount options here you can see. Hha always recommends you go as high as you can when you’re siting in at 20.

So that way you get as much clearance as possible. When you get to that that bottom end, all right, you got micro, adjust on your windage here, it’s audible clicks works pretty flawlessly, and then you got your lock down. I mean this locks down absolutely solid. It’s got markings here and markings here, so it’s pretty idiot-proof to get that that locked in this site here that I have this is the excel housing.

If you want to compare that to the smaller the regular housing I mean, you can see that the excel is quite a bit. Bigger I mean the smaller one is 105 ace and the bigger one is 2 inches between you. Just get them in here and you hold them in your hand like when I first got this site in the mail. I was surprised by how much bigger it felt and this one’s also 10 000 spin versus the 19 000 spin on this other site.

That I got in my hand. They also have a 29 000 I. Don’t have that I think with the HHA. That would probably be way too huge all right, so this 10 000, which pin on the brighter 10000 spins you have seen out there it’s plenty bright when you get it when you get it outside and get shooting with it, so you’d have no problem.

Shooting the 10 000th, unlike some other 10 000 spins, that you probably want to light for and then you got a look a little dampener in here. I, don’t know if it’s really keeps things that much quieter. It’s a pretty solid piece of equipment. I think it’s mostly just there for looks honestly. So that’s pretty much it with this site.

It does come in mechanical rheostat version to block some of the light from hitting the pins. Other people use electrical tape. That I don’t know if you can really see it with this site right now, but it will change the brightness quite a bit. So if you’re out in the middle of the day or just in high light in general, you can prevent that pin from hailing.

If you were gonna shoot like a twenty nine thousandths or the the nineteen thousand I would I would say that’s a solid recommendation, but for the ten thousands you might not need it all right I mean it’s plenty bright, but it’s not overly bright. You can see. Also you get a nice big bubble level on here. The last thing, I will say, is the knock that people always have on the HHA optimizers that they don’t come with the second and third axis adjustments.

You can buy a separate extension piece that will allow you to adjust. Second and third axis. It fits in right in here. It’s like 20 bucks, but yeah. That’s that’s pretty much it for this site. It’s a it’s a good step up from the optimizer light, it’s a little bit more precise if you’d like a dial, it’s worth it, but it does cost a little bit more money, so just things to keep in mind when you’re looking for a site.

So thanks for watching.

Hi I’m Scott Bakken, with HHA sports and today we’re sighting in our brand-new optimizer light. We just mounted the sight to our bowl and when mounting it to your bowl, there’s two options: there’s two different mounting holes: you have set of holes that extend the sight out a little bit farther from the bowl and then there’s a set of holes that keep the sight a little closer to your bowl. It’s all personal preference I prefer to have my skull, posing out a little farther so today, I’m outted my sight and the farther holes just to get the skull pausing out a little farther to sight.

In our sight, the first step we’re going to do is we’re going to shoot at 20 yards. There’s two methods you can use when siting in your optimizer light. You can use the 2040 method, which is shooting at 20 yards and 40 yards or 20 and 60, which is shooting at 20 yards and 60 yards. The preferred method is the 20 and 60 yard method. That way, you get the exact tape that you need. However, today you know not, everybody has the luxury of shooting 60 yards.

So today we’re going to show you, the twenty and forty method, to get your your yardage tape. So we’re going to start off at twenty yards here we have the target downrange on your optimizer light, you’re, actually going to want to start with your slide as far down. So when I say the slide, there’s a little brass needle. You want that all the way down and start from there and what that does is raises your skull.

Pausing up. So your skull pausing is up for closer yardages, it’s going to be down for further yards, so we want your arm down I’m, going to start for 20 here, I’m going to start at about mark 10 and just see where that gets me and then we’ll go from there. If you don’t have a lot of room or if you don’t have a big target like we have here to shoot at, you may want to start closer and do some really close range, shooting, like five yards, just to make sure you’re going to hit the target.

But for this purpose we’re going to shoot at 20 yards and see what happens all right, so our first shot left and right was actually pretty good up and down or probably about four inches high. So in this case, because I started off at mark 10 I have some I have some room to go down so I’m going to move my my adjustment arm and needle down as far as I can and we’ll see where that, where that puts us on our second shot, so I made the adjustment and now our needle is that is bottomed out at zero.

So this is, as far down in my slide as I can go so shot number two is actually a little bit low, so I adjusted my slide a little too much so I’m going to split the difference. My first arrow I was at mark 10. My second arrow I was at mark zero, so I’m going to go to five mark number, five on my setup tape and shoot arrow number, three all right. So arrow number three was perfect, so we found our 20-yard mark at mark number five.

So we’re going to make mental note of that and then we’re going to move back to forty yards and get our forty yard mark and again you can find your yardage Mark’s two different ways: the twenty and forty method or the 20 and 60 method, and right now we’re doing the twenty and forty method so we’re at 40 yards and if I was at mark five at 20 yards I’m going to go ahead and try probably mark 25 for 40 and just see where that gets me.

You know again, you know we have a. We have a pretty large target to shoot at so at home. If you have a smaller target, you know: go 20, 30 and then back to 40, but we’re just going to try mark number 25 and see where we hit there. So I’ll make the adjustment to mark number 25 and we’ll go ahead and shoot an arrow and see see what happens. Okay, so I was a little high at 40 at mark 25, which I kind of thought I would be, but it was worth a try, so I’m about a foot high, so I’m going to come down.

I’m I’m going to go from 25 to about 18, so I’m at mark 18. Right now and we’ll see what arrow number two does. It looks like arrow number two at mark 18 was pretty good, might be just a hair high, but for what we’re doing right now, that’ll that’ll work. Your groups don’t have to be absolutely perfect to where you have arrows touching each other. If you can put three or four arrows in a paper plate, that’s plenty of sufficient, so I’m pretty happy with that arrow.

So it looks like my 40-yard mark is at mark number 18. Now that we’ve found our two yardage marks that we need our first yardage mark being at 20 yards, our second yardage mark being at 40 yards. We can now find the pre-printed yardage tape that we need to have our optimizer light sight sight it in from 20 yards all the way out to 80 yards. So at 20 yards we’re at mark 5 and at 40 yards. We are mark 18 when you take five from 18 that gives you number 13, so we’re going to go to our conversion chart that comes with your optimizer light and we’re going to find number 13.

If you look straight across from number 13 it’ll it’ll reference number 29, this is going to be our final tape that we use so we’re gonna, find tape, number 29 in our list of pre-printed yardage tapes, we’re in a match up our forty yard mark on our yardage tape, with our forty yard mark on our setup tape. So our forty yard mark on our setup tape, was mark number eighteen, so I’m going to tape the forty yard mark on the yardage tape and I’m going to line it up with forty yard mark on our setup tape.

Now that we have our yardage tape laid down on our optimizer light slide, we have successfully sighted our site in from 20 yards to 80 yards in five yard increments. I’m Scott, with hhe sports check us out online at HHA, sport’s calm or you can visit us on social media on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

We’re gonna do a little head-to-head review of the HHA optimizer light and the trophy Ridge pursuit. I’m gonna try to keep this short and sweet. So these are ball single pin sliders. They got a super similar design on them. As you can probably tell there are a couple differences. The biggest thing is gonna, be the price between the two. The HHA is a hundred plus dollar sight. Depending on what model you you buy, there’s a three different pin sizes and two different housing sizes.

They come with the standard, housing and there’s an XL size, housing available. The pursuit is a 60-ish dollar sight, depending on where you buy it, plus or minus. If you get a good deal so shop around on that one, the biggest thing you probably notice is the build quality. Overall, with the HHA versus the pursuit, you’re gonna spend twice as much money. You’re gonna get a little bit higher quality sight. I mean it’s got just a little bit: thicker aluminum overall everywhere the hardware is a little bit higher quality, the bushings just the way it’s put together just a little bit higher quality between the two, and because of that, this thing operates super smoothly up and down it’s completely silent.

It doesn’t bind anywhere really nice up and down this one, not quite as high quality on on the adjustments with this, it’s got some some issue with the slider adjustment and these two screws here a little bit too tight on this site that I got out of the box and it actually pushes these bushings down into the housing and that causes a bind as they move to the top of the channel like that. So it’s not a total deal-breaker.

It’s just something to be aware of so next thing. Your your adjustments, your windage on this is standard. You’ve got to loosen that screw just slide. It left and right. It’s not laser etched or anything on there, so you’re flying blind a little bit, but it’s nothing that you know you can’t get adjusted either yourself or at a Pro Shop versus va-jay-jay. This has got micro adjust and it’s it’s all edged out here.

So it’s it’s easy to see. It’s got a lock on the front of it. It just it moves by clicks. That’s super nice. It’s never gonna move once you tighten that thing down. Pretty much promise you that another another thing to mention pursuit actually has second and third axis adjustments to come on it. It’s a leg up on this versus the HHA that doesn’t have those it’s one thing that people talk about. They don’t like about the HHA is that you have to buy a separate extension bracket for the hhj to get that second and third axis, but with this site you you have them both.

So if you loosen up these two screws here, this top one is slotted for your second axis, and your third axis is here on the inside. If you are to loosen up the pins on the housing, we’re not the pins. Excuse me screws here you loosen these two bottom screws and then there’s a third screw on top. You can tighten to adjust your third axis. You can see them moves like that. So, if you adjust this, you tighten this screw up its gonna get your third axis adjustment.

It’s not the most polished third access adjustment I’ve ever seen, but for a fifty dollar site I mean you can’t really complain too much about it. So next thing site tape kits this one doesn’t come with a sight tape kit. It just has this blonde glow-in-the-dark sight tape? Alright, you have to write in your marks manually I’ve, seen people use the HHA sight tape kit on that site. You can buy that separately.

Online comes included with the HHA. It’s a good system. It’s got like I, can’t remember if it’s 40 or 50 site tapes that it comes with and calibration two tapes, but with that you shoot it at twenty. You get your mark at 20 and you shoot it at either sixty or forty and then there’s some comparisons. You have to do on a table, but that’ll get you your site tape and it’s it’s really nice and accurate, so I’ve never had a problem, shooting that I’ve shot I’ve shot this site for a while now, so it’s pretty good, and the last thing is that the HHA doesn’t come with the light where the the persuit does alright, with either of these sites.

You got pretty bright, pins and you’re. Probably not really gonna need a light anyway, but the pursuit comes with mine. It’s not an outstanding light by any means, but it’ll it’ll do the job that’ll light it up. If you’re, you know you, you got no movement and you’re out hunting and it’s super dark for opening light. It’s a good thing to have. So, thanks for watching.

What is going on guys you can GZ outdoors here today. We will give you a product review of the HHA optimizer light sight. So, as you can see, I already got my sight tape on here. If you know anything about this item, HHA has this thing called a range dial shoot technology or already has technology pretty much. What you do is you throw a setup tape on your site and as soon as I find, I can show you. I can show you what it is.

Oh here they are. So the setup tape goes from zero to sixty five, and none of these, like the numbers, don’t have anything to do with the yardages at all. So if you think you’re gonna shoot anything you’re going to put your PIN on 60 and shoot 65 yards you’re going to have them stick and probably lose an arrow. So what you do is you put one of these setup tapes on their new sighting at 20 and 60 yards? And after that you do simple math.

You take the second number of minus s, the first number. So let’s say your second number was down to 45 and your first number was 10, so you do 45 minus 10, that’s 35, and you would select the 35-yard tape now. The one complaint that I do not like about these yardas tape as they go by every five yards and for me out, if you think you’re gonna be shooting past 40 yards I’d like them to go by the yard just because at 60 yards, if you, if you guess 60 by the thing, was but like your animal- is at 61 yards you’re, going to miss that animal completely or vice versa, but that’s 1661, you’re, probably going to spine it.

So I would like a ma. You know it to be on my by the yard, but anyway, everything on the site, except for the pin and the two plastic washers here- are metal and the plastic washers. Don’t really I really have a problem with that at all, mainly because um, you know that makes the site on silent. This does not have second thorax adjustment. The windage and the windage elevation are both old movers. So you got to loosen up this knob, you can move it, then you’re free to move it or whatever, and the windage is what you got loosing these two screws, and then you can turn this knob right here and it moves your own site, housing in and out.

This is not kind of second third axle adjustments, but if you’re playing on going out west and taking this site with, you need to go on the HHS website and purchase their second and third axes, adapter, which will which will probably plug like right around here. This I think that’s what it looked like when I look at it’s a picture. You put mounts on here and do your second third axis and then you’d be fine um.

So yes, pretty much it so, as you can see, I have number 34 on here and I’m going to take the clear I. Don’t know if you guys can see this. This is like a clear film and you put on it so like just in case I get rains or whatever you know, you’re psyched it’ll still be fine and, as you can see, I had a little bit of overlap on the bottom piece of my site right here and I just tucked it under, and it should be fine.

So, when I loosen this up and put this clear, put this clear, I’m a film over it all right. So this is correct and hhas not ripping me off. I should be sited in from 0 to 60 yards or I mean from love 0 from 20 to 70 yards I should be set up, ready to go um now, I’ll be honest with you guys. I bought this site and a pinch because I was going to go to I was invited to go to a 3d shoot. My friends and I actually do have my other site that I was planning on using I was going to using this site because I like singleton mover sites and whatnot.

This one is the trophy ridge version. Well this and actually was going to be using this. However, as you can see, there super glue right there. I was practicing and you know the bubble level came flying off, so um yeah I’ve decided to no not go out and lose arrows. So I went out I bumped this $105 site in a pinch, and you know, I mean for me I’m a very exact person. It took me four days to you, know stuff dialed in and ready to go because I want to be exact and no one really likes to miss and neither do I so guys.

If you enjoyed this. This is probably just going to be like a target site for me. Cuz. My new hunting site that re I’m ordered is the UM. The Montana black gold ascent to repin and I’ll, be picking that up later this week, I my pro shop along with more arrows. Because, honestly, if you don’t have second third axes, adjustment German, you guys are really missing out, because this windage and elevation like this windage like I, don’t like how you know the windage is and when my home elbow vertical, like the bubble is not level when I love my bubble.

I shoot way too far to the right, so yeah I’ll be getting a new site this week and I’ll be doing a review and setup of that site. So yeah guys, if you guys enjoyed this, please rate comment subscribe and until next time guys I will see you later. Peace.

Hi I’m Scott Bakken, with HHA sports, and today we have a brand new optimizer ultra just mounted to our Bowl and we’re now we’re going to work on sighting it. In the first thing, you’ll notice, when you mount the optimizer ultra to your bowl, is that you actually get two choices of mounting holes. You have a set of holes are a little bit farther forward on the site, and a set of holes are a little bit farther back.

This is all personal preference on where you want to mount your site. It’s basically just choosing. If you want your site a little bit farther out from your bowl or if you like it closer in I, prefer mine a little bit farther out. So I mounted my site on the back two holes so now that we have the site mounted we’re going to get our first yardage mark.

So what the optimizer ultra you get two options for, siting it in and picking out your pre-printed yardage tape. Your first option is to shoot 20 and 60, so shooting 20 yards and 60 yards and getting your yardage tape. That way, that’s the preferred method, because once you do 20 and 60, then that you’re going to use that exact tape number or you can shoot 20 yards and 40 yards and take that number and then go to a conversion chart.

That’s the way we’re going to do it. Today we have a little bit of wind today, so shooting a little bit longer distances is going to be a little difficult, so we’re going to do the 20 and 40 method, but you can do 20 and 60, so our first shot is going to be at 20 yards here. I have my dial on my ultra turned down to about Mark 10, and this is just a sheer guess.

You know we’re lucky. We have a pretty big target to shoot at, so we have some some room to play with, but I’m going to start at mark 10 and see where we go from there. That first shot was pretty high. So what I’m going to do now is I’m going to move my dial from mark 10 and I’m going to go because we’re about foot high I’m going to go down to probably about mark 3 and see where my next Harrow arrow hits.

It’s still a little high, so I’m going to move my dial all the way down to zero all right. So we shot our first round of arrows and we were shooting pretty high and when adjusting our dial, we actually ran out of room on our dial to bring our arrows down. So zero is the bottom of the dial and we were at zero and we were still shooting too high.

So we actually had to go in and move our scope, pausing up a set of holes to help bring the arrows down. So now that we made those adjustments, we’re going to start off again, but this time I’m going to start my dial at about mark number, five just to see where that hits. So we started out at 10 with our school pausing down and now that we moved it up, we’re going to start at 5 and then see you see from there.

So the first arrow is pretty much right in there. It’s a little bit to the left, but up and down looks pretty good, so to compensate for the left and right we’re going to loosen up our Micra windage and since we’re shooting a hair left I’m going to bring the skull pausing in to the left. So you always chase the arrow so I’m going to make just a few clicks to bring it in and one click is about an eighth inch at 20 yards.

So I don’t need to make much of an adjustment. Just a little one. Tighten our lock knob down. Okay, it’s pretty much! The same spot shoot one more just to okay, so we’re still still just a hair low until left, so I’m going to make the necessary adjustments and then we’ll go from there. So we just got done shooting at 20 yards and we made some minor adjustments and it turns out that our 20 yard mark on our dial is that mark number 8.

So you can either mark that on your tape or make mental note of it that 20 yards is that mark number 8, so we’re at 40 yards right now and I’m going to move my adjustment dial to I’m, going to try number 25 and see where that gets me. So you know you could go 20 30 40 and get your 40-yard mark that way, but we’re just going to try mark number 25 and see where that gets us that one looked pretty good, we’ll run down and take a quick look and see if we need to make any adjustments from there.

Now that we have our optimizer ultra shot in at 20 yards and 40 yards. We have the two marks on our setup tape that we need in order to find the correct, pre-printed, yardage tape that will have a sighted in from 20 yards all the way out to 80 yards. So at 20 yards we were at mark number. Eight and at 40 yards we are at mark number 25. So if you take 8 from 25 that gives you number 17 we’re going to take number 17 and look it up on the conversion chart that comes with your optimizer ultra.

So if you look at 17 right across from that, it’s going to reference number 38 number 38 is our final tape number that we need to lay down on our ultra speed dial. So in our package of pre-printed site tapes that comes with your ultra we’re going to find tape. Number 38, so we’re going to take number 38 we’re going to match our 40-yard mark on our yardage tape, with our 40-yard mark on our setup tape, lay the tape down and now our altro be sited in from 20 to 80 yards by the individual yard.

So now that we’ve successfully laid down our correct yard of tape on our optimizer ultra, we are sited in from 20 yards all the way up to 80 yards by the individual yard, I’m Scott, with HHA sports for more information, instructional videos or product videos visit us at h, h, a sports comm or visit us on social media at facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

Look at the HHA optimizer tetra site. Now this is a site that was released earlier this year at the ATA show I’ve had one on my bow for a couple of months now, I just wanted to give you guys kind of an overview of what this site is and what some of the features are. So if you’re familiar with HHA they’ve been the leader in single pin adjustable site technology for many many years now, a couple years ago they came out with the king pin, which was their first wheel forward design and what that did for you was it eliminated some of the issues that people had with mounting their quiver with the original optimizers that either had the slider or had the dial here at the back right.

So with the wheel forward, design, you’ve eliminated all issues with you know, quivers mounting on your bow, so the Tetra is going to be kind of the second generation wheel forward design and I think of it, kind of as a little brother to the king pin right. The king pin is still the flagship model for ajj. It’s their top of the line model features a lot of great technologies on it, but the Tetra also has some great technologies and some new stuff that the king pin doesn’t have.

So you know the biggest difference that I find between the king pin and the Tetra is that the Tetra does not have the removable wheel system that the king pin has this wheel is fixed in place. Now, that’s not a big deal for most people that are only shooting a single arrow setup, but having that removable wheel on the king pin is nice if you’re the type of person that likes to shoot multiple arrow setups, maybe you like to shoot one for 3d one for hunting, maybe in my case I like to shoot one for turkey hunting and then one for deer hunting I shoot different arrows, which has allows me to easily just remove the wheel.

That’s got the correct tape on it. For let’s say my turkey set up and put my deer set up on, you do lose that ability with the Tetra but like I, said for most people, not that big of an issue they did redesign the wheel on the Tetra. So it’s actually got this new shape. That’s a little bit easier to grab it’s not a round wheel like the kingpin has so a little bit easier to grab.

It’s got the same easy system where you just loosen this wing nut here and then you can adjust your sight up and down. So that’s probably the biggest difference between the two sights a couple of new things that they changed on the tetras they’ve got an all-new micro adjust system on the front, so I’m not gonna, loosen this and play with it right now, because this is my hunting bow I’m, getting ready to go.

Hunt tonight and I don’t want to mess with my sight in terms of my windage adjustment. But what you would do is loosen this up and then you can move the entire gang in and out so there’s a little bit better gang adjustment, meaning you can move it in bulk and then you use the wheel here for your fine adjustments in and out so actually they have changed that between the kingpin and the Tetra.

The other thing that changed on this particular rest is going to be the way that you can move and this what they’re calling their infinite adjustment on the actual scope where the scope housing mounts into the site bracket, so you’ll, see here on the side. You’ve got some witness marks that are laser etched into the site itself, so I’ll give you guys kind of just a quick look at how this site goes together.

So when you get it, you know in the box, that’s going to come in two pieces. You’re gonna need to assemble it. It’s super super easy. Alright, so you’ve got all your mounting hardware, all of your instructions and your tapes and everything are in here, but you’ve got essentially your sight bracket here and then you’ve got your scope and your scope housing now the way that this works- and this has actually got a small rubber band on and when you get it to hold these kind of brass washers in here, but the way that this works is these brass washers are actually going to slide into the sight housing.

You can now slide this up and down so you’ve got this infinite adjustment, where it’s on the kingpin, the sight housing actually bolted into the bracket, and if you wanted to move it, you needed to take those bolts out and move it into a new location. So the Tetra is a little bit more versatile and in that regard, I know.

This is a big improvement. That I personally liked allows for some a little bit easier fine-tuning of the actual site itself. So this moves up and down and then once you get it kind of to where you want it, you go ahead and you tighten these down. That’s also going to be your second axis. Adjustment is right here, so this site, once you get it in, there is going to swivel kind of side to side to level.

Your second axis out, once you get everything put together. You’ve got three different mounting locations here. I generally prefer to mount my site as are away from my boat as possible, so I’m gonna use this back set of holes and then you’ve got a four set of holes here which allows you to mount your quiver bracket on there.

I’ve got a tight spot. Quiver mounted on here works great and no problems. So that’s kind of the overview of the Tetra. Again, it’s kind of a little brother to the kingpin. The cost is definitely a little bit less you’re, looking at starting it 269 on the tetra where’s, the kingpin starts at about 270 or I’m. Sorry 379, so you’re gonna save a little bit of money on the Tetra.

You don’t get quite all the features it is not available in a tournament edition. With the dovetail mount, it is only a fixed mount, it’s more of a hunting site. Those of you who are looking for a target site or want something where you can really get that eye relief, get your sight way out there. You’re definitely gonna want to still stick with the kingpin.

The last new thing, I’ll tell you about HHA changed for this year is going to be waterproof sight, tapes, which is a very much needed improvement in my opinion. So you know all of their sites are gonna, come with a bunch of tapes. I’m not gonna, go into how to cite in your single pin sight. There’s plenty of other videos on that, but once you figure out which tape you need all of the new tapes are now water-resistant.

So if they get wet in the rain snow sleet, whatever you may be, hunting in you don’t have to worry about your tape, falling apart and coming off. So that’s a look at the HHA optimizer tetra. If you guys want to learn more about it, you can go to HHA sports comm they’ve got all the information there. Of course, if you guys want to buy one of these sites, check them out, Lancaster archery has them in stock and ready to ship, and thanks for watching.